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Mar 2010 Pg 36
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French Cheese Information
The Buzz About Raw Milk Cheese...
Pasteurization is a recent practice due to technology and the evolution of cheese making from small farms to huge factories. Issues from eating raw milk cheese is more often traced to post-pasteurization or post-production contamination rather than raw milk. Factories have to buy milk from many sources that travel over long distances to bulk containers, a major source of contamination.

The nutritional benefits from raw milk include that milk prior to pasteurization is rich in colloidal minerals and enzymes, which are necessary for the absorption and utilization of sugars and fats in the milk. Raw Milk has a heat sensitive cortisone-like factor in the cream that aids to combating allergies. Raw Milk has the phosphatase enzyme which helps the body absorb calcium from the milk and it was used effectively in treating diabetes before insulin. There are many reasons to continue enjoying raw milk products.

The safety of these cheeses has been proven over hundreds of years, they have substantial nutritional benefits and their rich, complex flavors add dimension to our cuisine and experiences. Low Temp Pasteurization (heating milk to 148 degrees F for 30 minutes) and Thermalization (a system of heat treatment of 148 - 150 degrees F for 15 - 20 seconds with immediate cooling to preserve beneficial enzymes) have helped alleviate the flavor issues while satisfying government regulations.  

Pregnant women, immuno-suppressives, the very young and the very old are encouraged to avoid soft, creamy cheeses, pasteurized or not due to the remote possibility of a listeria infection. This includes surface-ripened and mold ripened cheeses like brie and soft-ripened blue cheeses.


Expiration Dates & Specialty Cheese
What is a specialty cheese anyway? Most specialty cheeses are those that reflect the character and tradition of the region they are from. They may be handmade on the farm or produced on a larger scale keeping the integrity and quality of the cheese the highest priority. Specialty cheeses tend to convey a depth of flavor that might not otherwise be available. All cheeses are essentially a living, evolving product. the cultures, bacteria and molds that make them cheese also exist after production.

Certain bacteria, when exposed to oxygen, continue to produce a bloom and one will visibly see mold. This does not mean the cheese is bad but on some cheeses the mold may contribute an undesirable flavor. Trim it away and taste to see if the flavor is still pleasant. Trying to put an expiration date on many specialty cheeses is like putting an expiration date on a bottle of wine that is meant to be aged. Aging wine is a mysterious, unpredictable process that does not conform to specific timelines- And to a certain extent, this is also true for cheese. Sometimes a wheel will age longer than the last piece.

Although there are points of no return when it comes to the life of a cheese. U.S.F.D.A. rules state that imported products must have a recommended "Consume by" date. These dates may be a good rule of thumb but they do not take into account that the cheeses may either be perfect or not even ready after those dates. Take a good look at your cheese and give it a sniff, you'll be able to tell if the cheese is still right for you. Who knows? You may discover a new cheese to add to your repertoire just like happening on a great new bottle of wine! Enjoy!


Should my cheese be moldy?
Absolutely, yes! Mold is a natural part of cheese. It is the visible part of the controlled spoilage that defines cheese. Cheese is a fermented food, just like wine. You don't see the mold associated with that $50 bottle of wine, but it was there. With cheese you can see AND EAT the mold. Often it tastes good and adds to the cheese. All cheeses are essentially a living product.

The cultures, bacteria and molds that make them cheese also exist in them after production. Certain bacteria, when exposed to oxygen, will continue to produce a bloom and one will visibly see mold. This does not mean the cheese is had. The fluffy white, fleurie rind of a brie or camembert helps transform a firm and non-descript cheese into a tasty, gooey cheese from the outside in by the mold, Penicilhum candidum. Where would blue cheese like Roquefort, Gorgonzola or Stilton be without mold creating veins and caverns on the inside and would we like them without it? Hard cheeses are ripened on the inside from bacteria already in the cheese-mold growth is encouraged on the rind to produce a semi-permeable barrier so gases and moisture escape but air can't get in.

When confronted with mold on your cheese, ask yourself, "Is the mold intrinsic to the cheese and does it taste good?" A great piece of aged goat cheese in" he covered with all sorts of blue and white molds. Don't he squeamish about the mold, it won't hurt you. It's a good sign that your cheese is still alive, meaning it will taste much better, like fresh-cut vegetables from the garden. Sometimes gray and brown molds don't taste that great... cut them off or simply eat around them. Eating the mold is often determined by the type of rind. Brie-style, bloomy rinds and the delicate rind on many goat cheeses add to the overall flavor. The washed rind cheeses will also add but could he too strong for some. Some natural rinds may be too firm or dry to eat, those will be pretty obvious! Go ahead, taste it and then continue according to your own preference.


When is my cheese ripe?
Cheese is a living thing. It does not like to be smothered in cryovac (plastic wrap) and it doesn't want to be too cold. It prefers to be moist, but not too moist, and dry, but not too dry. A good analogy is that just like the skin on our faces the rinds of most cheeses are happiest when in balance. When a cheese is a point, the French term for "to the touch", it is at the correct point of ripeness to be eaten. Your senses determine this. Does it look, smell, feel and (if possible) taste appropriate for the type of cheese that it is? It may take time to develop these abilities since our culture doesn't deal with cheese as a traditional staple like other countries.

Once purchased it will go through changes, sometimes very quickly, sometimes for the better and often times not. Notice if it looks dried out, too oozy, or discolored. How has the smell changed? If it smells like ammonia or too much like a footlocker it might be time to let it go. Taste a small part of it, from the middle of the cheese. Sometimes the rind will no longer be viable, but the interior will be fine for cooking or for a few last bites. Remember that it is all downhill from when the cheese is opened or cut into. It is not so much that it will go bad, but it won't have as much flavor or complexity as it originally did. It will go dead, or be bland and boring in flavor. Cheeses prefer to be at 50-55°F in temperature and at 80% butterfat humidity or more. Very difficult in American refrigerators!

The most important thing to keep in mind is that cheeses must breathe in order to survive. When using your cheese cut off the portion you expect to use and Store the rest with plastic wrap over the cut face and Wax Paper around the rind. Then store it in the vegetable drawer or a container with a lid. If you plan on using a cheese within a matter of days, these extra precautions are probably not necessary. Simply wrap it to keep from drying out and enjoy soon.
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